Build Tips
The build tips below are just some of the topics that we feel will benifit others interested in learning more about ponds. It comes from designing, building, owning and being around ponds for over 50 years. We have helped hundreds upon hundreds of architects, contractors and home owners build ponds with great success. This success comes from our past experiance as a General building contractor, having attended multiple Koi Wet Lab classes, owning Koi ponds, constant research into pond and product design with the desire to share with all of our customers what ever help they may need to make it as easy as possible to "get it right" the first time.

Larger ponds are easier to maintain: (smaller ponds are actually the hardest to manage and maintain) With a larger pond comes a larger volume of water, and this aids in water chemistry stability. Maintaining alkalinity to stabilize pH is easier in a larger pond. This is incredibly important as pH and temperature swings that occur in smaller ponds are more stressful to Koi. Backwashing a filter on a large pond drains off only about 5% of the total volume of water. This represents a reasonable water change that benefits the nutrient content of the pond. Backwashing a filter on a small pond may nearly drain it.

Steep sides and why: The number one predator of Koi is the Blue Heron. With steep sides, it is near impossible for them to wade in to get your fish. They will stand on shallow Lillie pots or rocks and eat Koi. They will stab the extra-large Koi with their beaks and toss them to the outer side of the pond, to get them out of the way so that they can get to the medium to small ones that they can eat.

Depth of pond: The long term standard has been three feet as the minimum. When going less than that water temperature swings will fluctuate more rapidly and this can cause stress to the Koi. It also will make it easier for predators to find places to stand and capture the fish. Too shallow, the fish are in danger of rubbing their bellies on the bottom when startled, which can cause injury, and this will leave the fish open to infection. Four to six feet is preferred and many will go to even eight feet or more when they are serious about raising "champion" Koi. Koi develop strength and girth by swimming up and down, not just swimming horozontally.

Water Volume reduces fish stress: With volume comes more places for the fish to wander and find comfort away from predators, or activities like the kids soccer ball bouncing into the pond. Depth enables them to stay away from the Blue Heron that kills so many Koi. Raccoons are not likely to get into the pond, yet will attempt to hang over and swipe at any fish close to the side.

Rubber liner, concrete or other:

• Rubber: Most ponds are built using EPDM 45 Mil Firestone Pond Guard rubber liner. It is reasonable in cost and conforms to shapes with the one drawback of having flaps/creases. Rectangular ponds can avoid the flaps, showing in the pond, by doing hospital type bed sheet corners that place the flap folded backwards behind the sides, and the seam, or opening to the flap, is in the very corner.



• Concrete being very strong and somewhat permanent uses re-bar metal grid much like that of a swimming pool, and a shot-Crete or Gunite method of applying the concrete by a professional with equipment that injects air into the mixture to create a strong result. When dry, it will need a sealer applied to the surface unless one was introduced into the concrete mixture. A common method of sealing, a plaster coat, is the same method used for swimming pools. It is a 50/50 mix of Portland cement and sand. This also permits mixing black concrete dye into the plaster coat.



• Another method for sealing up any pond is called Polyurea. It is by far the most favorable, and the strongest. It results in a beautiful sprayed-on liner that contours to the surface and binds to skimmers and bottom drains for water proofing. Along with the increase in benefits of this method, so goes the price. Water and fish can be added almost immediately after the crew are done. The application is sprayed directly onto any surface and has high strength and elasticity. So much so, that it is sprayed on the underside of military vehicles to prevent them from being blown into multiple parts from road side bombs in combat.

Raised sides: At the very least the perimeter of the pond edge should have some berm (rise) to prevent any possible chance of landscape run-off into the pond. This event could introduce mud, or fertilizer chemicals into the pond water. The advantages to an 18 inch raised seat wall are many ie: less debris, caused by winds blowing in from the yard, easier to sit and enjoy the fish close up, safer for children, decreasing the chance of falling in, and finally, the Koi are less intimidated by your shorter appearance.

Permit, or not: All cities have different viewpoints and building code regulations. Be sure to call them and ask questions. Some cities do not require permits for a pond, yet may want one for any electrical work. They may ask about any type of auto fill, and require a simple anti- siphon valve preventing any possible pond water from flowing back into the city water system.

Piping: PVC and ABS are widely used. PVC is also available in flex. Most pond water plumbing is done with 2 inch piping. If your pipe runs are going to be 30 feet or longer use 3 inch piping for as much of the run as possible. When gluing PVC to ABS use a combination glue. Pond pumps typically only pump 5 – 7 psi of pressure which is considered very low and safe.

Copper anything: Simply put, NO! Copper, if used for any part of the plumbing, or water feature, can permit leaching of the copper into the water and cause copper toxicity to the Koi. Beware of brass as well because brass contains copper. Typically occurs at low levels of alkalinity in the water.

Underwater lights: After seeing what stray voltage can do to fish, it would be better to install lighting that shines down into the pond. Underwater lights, whether they are low voltage, or not, can begin to experience weakened seals that are designed to make the lighting unit watertight... to keep water out! They may continue to operate just fine, while zapping your fish every time they are turned on. A fish found dead that has an arched back is dead from electrical shock.
To test for stray voltage, drain the pond enough so that it allows you to be able to place the light in a bucket of water. Turn on the light. Test the water in the bucket with one probe of an electrical volt test meter and then touch the other electrical tester probe to a ground. It should read zero volts. (Do not stand in or touch water during any part of this testing!)

I hope this helps. Give us a call if we can help more: 360 588-0140
SkagiTek