Nitrate:
Plants
and algae consume Nitrates. If you have no plants, then Nitrates
will continue to increase to levels that could cause sickness in
the fish. Normally Nitrates don't bother fish. If the Nitrate
levels continue to increase past 60 ppm, then they start to become
a concern. Reaching levels of 200 ppm will then become a factor
that may stress the fish and cause some ill conditions.
Water changes are a quick means
to reduce Nitrate levels. Water changes of 5-10% each week should
be done on a regular bases as a means to keeping good water
quality and healthy fish. Keeping water Hyacinth plants in the
pond are very effective in reducing Nitrate levels.
A note about the above bacteria.
Over time, the bacteria consume the carbonates which are the
buffers for your PH. Be sure to test your alkalinity and PH levels
on a regular bases. Once your alkalinity begins to drop below 80
ppm, the conditions for a PH crash are possible and fatality to
fish will begin. Usage of Baking soda is a regular practice in
maintaining alkalinity levels. Since alkalinity is the buffer to
PH, be sure to watch and keep the alkalinity levels up. Increasing
more then 25 ppm per day may cause stress to the fish. Consider
dissolving the Baking Soda (100% Sodium Bicarbonate) with some
water and pour around the pond, or pour the powder in a separate
area of your pond like a stream, skimmer or pre-filter. If your
water has high levels of alkalinity, then your regular water
changes may be enough to help maintain your alkalinity and PH. In
either case, testing regularly will help in keeping good water
quality.
Return
to Top
Creating the Cycle
Begin with water conditions
tested to be in normal ranges (Alk. PH.). Normally it takes a
minimum of 21 or more days to cycle once Ammonia is present in the
water. Complete Cycling can take 4-6 weeks. 5 to 7 days is
possible by spiking a new filtering system using bio-filter media
containing bacteria from an existing filtering system. Two methods
to consider for getting Ammonia to exist.
- Adding 100% Clear Ammonia (Check
at Rite Aid)
- Adding some fish (Expendable
Gold or Koi fish)
When adding clear Ammonia, be
sure that it does not contain any soap. Add 9 teaspoons of Ammonia
for every 100 gallons of water. The Ammonia level should be around
5 ppm when tested. Maintain reasonably warm and well oxygenated
water (65+) flowing through your filtering system. DO NOT ADD FISH
while using this method! Wait till the your nitrite tests indicate
0 ppm. The disadvantage to this method is that it does take 3
weeks before the Ammonia level reaches 0 ppm and the water color
will turn a tea color. Water changes after the 5th week will begin
to reduce the tea color. Since nitrite is the byproduct of the good
bacteria called "Nitrosomonas", nitrite levels will
begin to increase 7-16 days after the addition of Ammonia.
DO NOT ADD ANY FISH UNTIL the Nitrite levels reach ZERO! Then
follow up with regular testing weekly of all
tests. PH, Alkalinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
When creating a cycled filtering
system using the method of adding fish, use only a few fish and
don't over feed! Be sure the fish are expendable and not too
valuable to you. In case they become ill and die from the toxicity
of Ammonia and or Nitrites. It would be a very wise thing to test
everyday for until the Ammonia and Nitrites reach 0. Then follow
up with regular testing weekly of all
tests. PH, Alkalinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
The best and most ideal way to
cycle a new filtering system is to use some filter media from an existing
and cycled pond bio-filter. Placing some of this media in the
filter or in a location that permits the water to flow over it
will begin to introduce the good bacteria's into the new environment
enabling the cycle process to reach a working level much faster
then if you started from scratch. It is possible to be cycled in 3
to 7 days depending on how much media is introduced and other
conditions. You may have fish in the environment during this time
and it would be a very wise thing to test everyday for until the
Ammonia and Nitrites reach 0. Then follow up with regular testing
weekly of all
tests. PH, Alkalinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
Return
to Top
Salt
The cheapest first consideration
for treating a sick fish is to use Salt. Salt can be found at
hardware stores for around $6.00 for a 40 lb. bag. It eliminates 7
of the 9 parasites very quickly. And it will not harm your
filtering system.
Bring the Salt content to 0.3%
over a 3 day period by adding one lb. of salt for every 100
gallons each day. In the case of really ill fish, this can be done
every 12 hours until the 0.3% range is reached. To recap; 3 lbs.
added to 100 gallons = 0.3% salt. (Click
for the Salt Test Kit) Or
here for a Digital Salinity tester which is much easier to use...
Salt at 0.3% according to many
sources will kill the following
- Ich. (Ichthyophthirus) White
spots.
- Flukes
- North American Trichodina
- Costia
- Chilodinella
- Epistylis
- Scyphidia
- Glossatella
Protective coating. Salt
stimulates the mucus slim coat over the outside of the Koi and benefits
them in providing a protective coating from parasites.
Type of Salt to use. Non
iodized, kosher, ice cream and sea salt are ok. Solar rock salt
from a common hardware store is great. Be sure to read labels
looking for 95.5% pure salt. Verify that the label does NOT list
YPS or Yellow Prussiate of soda.
Max Levels. Some have
raised salt levels to 0.45% or even as high as 0.6%. The 0.6%
should only be considered after doing more research and when
attempting to kill Japanese Trichodina.
Adding the salt. Since
the quickest way to dissolve salt is to locate it in the path of
moving water, consider adding it in a stream bed or waterfall.
Adding to the pre-filter or skimmer will work, yet may kill off
some of the beneficial bacteria in the bio-filter since this will
be a very strong dose. For smaller ponds, add the rock salt to a
sock and lay it on the waterfall. Usage of a towel to form a sack
or consider folding a couple of layers of some netting to form a
sack and then lay this sack containing your salt in the path of
moving water.
Plants. Also remember
that salt levels do harm some plants. Most plants can handle 0.1%.
At 0.3%, hardy water lilies, Irises or common papyrus are ok.
Water Hyacinths, Lettuce and celery will yellow.
If you are treating ill Koi:
A Koi fish immune system is not active unless the water is 55
degrees or higher. When quarantining an ill fish in a another
tank, it is recommended to use some of the water that they were in
and began to warm it slowly over days. A sudden change of temp.,
chemicals, or being chased when catching can be enough stress to
send this fish over the edge.
Koi Fish naturally have a 1.0%
salt level. By adding salt, the buoyancy of a Koi reaches closer
to a neutral level and the Koi can swim with less effort. This
less amount of stress to an ill fish also benefits them from less
water pressure on infected or open wounds. Once you begin
increasing the salt level, you may see more activity from your
Koi.
How long does salt remain?
Salt stays in the pond until you remove water. Salt does NOT evaporate!
You should NOT keep 0.3% salt level in your pond year round. This
practice will only develop tougher trains of parasites.
When this happens, you may not be able to help your fish with
salt.
Salting to the seasons.
Some increase salt levels in the fall and then lower the
percentage during the winter water changes. Then increase again
going into spring, then reduce during the summer water changes.
This does several things. Twice a year you are killing off
possible parasites and are increasing the protective slim coats.
This may not be for everyone since keeping plants in the pond are
effected. Others may resort to use of chemicals for treating the
pond seasonally or when ill fish warrant treatment.
Testing Salt. Click
here for a salt test kit. Or
here for a Digital Salinity tester which is much easier to use...
Return
to Top
|
