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Answers to the 10 most frequently asked
questions
1)
What makes the Advantage
filter’s backwash cycle work so well?
The most common problem facing bead
filters today is the inability to properly breakup and then remove the waste
that collects in the beads during normal filtering. Some owners have been forced
to backwash their filters every day or they will "plug-up". The Advantage
bead filter has overcome that problem by the introduction of two new items. One
is the use of a new internal head design (patent pending.) which
allows more water to flow through the filter with one of the lowest head
pressures of any filter tested so far. The other improvement is the use of a heavy
duty 2 horsepower blower. Other companies use a 1 horsepower or smaller
blower. We have found the difference to be amazing in it’s ability to breakup
clogged beads. We have used this combination for over two years now at
Sacramento Koi. We have equipped our 9,000 gallon pond with the Advantage
15
filter, because we keep it heavily stocked ( approximately 80 to 100 medium to
large fish). We backwash twice a week and have yet to open the filter to
breakup the beads.
2)
Why
don’t you make a smaller filter for smaller ponds?
The smallest filter we make is our Advantage
5,
which is designed for ponds with up to 5,000 gallons of water. Other
manufactures make bead filters for ponds as small as 1,200 gallons. Our
experience has been that bead technology works because of several factors. One
important factor is that the beads have to be under a certain amount of
compression to cause them to become tightly packed together before they will
effectively filter out small particles. This compression is accomplished by the
mass of the beads floating against the inside top of the filter. Small filters,
with less than 2 cubic feet of beads, lack the mass when they float to create
the pressure to properly filter pond water. Most of the complaints we have heard
from bead filter owners were from those who owned one of these smaller filters.
Our smallest filter contains 3 cubic feet ( 130 lbs.) of beads. We have found
this amount of beads can filter exceptionally well and to reduce the amount of
beads to lower the cost of the filter slightly is not cost effective.
3) How often should I
backwash my filter?
With a new filter you may not want to backwash
for the first month depending on your fish load. Once the filter is established
we recommend that you backwash approximately once a week. A good guide line is
when you backwash, if the sight glass becomes clear in less than sixty
seconds, you are probably backwashing to often. On the other hand, if it takes
longer than sixty seconds to clear, you are probably not backwashing often
enough.
4) I heard that bead
filters make great mechanical filters but are they also effective as a
biological filter?
Yes. Science has proven that the amount of
surface area found in a cubic foot of beads is phenomenal. Couple that with the
way they are used. In a bead filter, with an effective backwash,
the beads are tossed around and being cleaned on a regular basis (twice a week)
when you backwash them. Once the bacteria is formed on the beads this regular
washing of the beads allows the bacteria to become extremely effective for two
reasons. First, the bacteria doesn't have to deal with breaking down all of the
fish stools and excess food that gets trapped in the filter because these solid
wastes are removed every three to four days. Secondly, as new bacteria grows it
can become smothered by the old dead bacteria if it is not removed somehow. This
is a real problem with lava rock filters. With bead filters, as soon as the old
bacteria dies and lets go from the surface of the beads, it is washed away thus
allowing room for the new bacteria to grow. We were told that a two horsepower
blower would destroy the "fragile" bacteria and that is why no one
else was using that large a blower. Our experience has been just the opposite.
We are constantly amazed at how well our filter works. Example; We have a 1,500
gallon pond with an Advantage
10, filter on it. We had 9 fish in the pond averaging 8 inches
each for the last 7 months. When we received a shipment of 28 high quality
Showas from Isa in Japan, ranging in size from 16 to 19 inches, we removed the
small fish and replaced them with the new fish. During the next 3 weeks, while
they were in quarantine, we watched the water quality very closely expecting the
ammonia and nitrites to sky rocket, but nothing happened. We were so surprised
that we opened a new test kit because we didn’t believe the results we were
getting. We invite anyone to try adding that amount of new fish to any 1,500
gallon pond at one time and see what happens.
The real problem is that it is hard to imagine
a filter, as small as a bead filter, could effectively replace the large bulky
filters that we have all been used to dealing with. The reality is that we are
dealing with a new technology that really does work.
5) Why don’t you
recommend using a settling tank or a vortex tank before the bead filter?
We feel a settling tank or a vortex tank
installed before a bead filter would be wonderful, because it could only enhance
your filtering system. If you have the space and money to install them, you have
my complete support. What our concern is that when coupled with a "good
bead filter," we are not sure that the added expense and the space
they consume is worth the investment. With a filter system using gravel or
similar material for your biological filtration you may be cleaning it only once
every six months. It is extremely important that you keep as much solid waste
from reaching that part of your filter as possible. On the other hand, with a
bead filter you are cleaning it every three to four days. Our recommendation is simple, catch all the large stuff ( leaves, acorns, etc.) in a simple leaf
basket and send the rest to your bead filter. Then when it is convenient, flush
it out. If you have a lot of leaves to deal with and are having to
empty your pump basket too often we suggest you install the large leaf basket
built by Aqua Ultraviolet. This unit stands 28" high and is 10" wide.
You can fit a ton of leaves in it before you need to dump it. Plus, since the
unit is made out of clear plastic you don’t have to guess how full it is.
6) Do you ever have to
replace the beads?
No, the beads never wear out. In fact they
actually get better at filtering with time.
7) How long does it
take for the filter to mature so that it will remove all ammonia and nitrites?
A new bead filter takes approximately two
months to mature enough to carry a moderate fish load. It takes almost nine
months to truly mature to the level of its potential. You can speed up this
process by about three weeks, by simply getting one of your friends to backwash
their filter or wash out their mats into a five gallon bucket and then pour this
into your skimmer so that it goes directly into your new filter. Do not backwash
then for at least two weeks. This can get the ammonia bacteria established
rather quickly, but the nitrite bacteria will take some time. In the meantime
you will need to do regular water changes.
8) What size filter
should I purchase?
This is actually a good question. The way all
filters are rated is somewhat misleading. Our smallest filter, the Advantage
5, is rated for ponds up to 5,000 gallons. This means that
we would recommend this filter for your pond if you:
a) had a 2,000 gallon pond heavily stocked
b) had a 4,000 gallon pond moderately stocked
c) had a 5,000 gallon pond lightly stocked
(One customer installed an
Advantage 10 on his 1500 gallon pond. Seems he has some 50 medium to large Koi.)
The point is that no one can accurately
recommend the proper filter for a certain gallon pond unless you know the fish
load that is planned for that pond.
We recommend that if you are not sure which
size to get, get the next larger size for your pond. The reason: the filter is
the most important part of your pond and you can never have too much filter. If
you get a filter that is too small for your fish load you will have constant
problems with the health of your fish. Keep in mind also, that we all tend to
over stock our ponds. We just can’t help it. In addition, the larger the
filter you place on your pond, the less often you will have to backwash it.
9) Do I need to have an
ultraviolet light with this filter to obtain clear water?
Not necessarily. In certain cases, ultraviolet
lights can make the difference between a crystal clear pond and a pea soup pond.
If you have a new pond, live in a hot area, and your pond receives full sun,
that is a recipe for green water. Our experience is that, if your pond has these
conditions, you are going to need a light. On the other hand, if you live in a
cooler area and your pond is shaded most of the day, you probably will not need
a light. As ponds mature and your water quality gets established, the need for a
ultraviolet light oftentimes is reduced. If you are not sure if you will need
one, we recommend that when you are plumbing for your pond, leave an area where you
can simply add one in the future if needed.
10) What if I purchase
an Advantage
filter and I am not happy with the way it performs? ZERO
RISK !
If within the first year, you are not
completely satisfied with the way your Advantage
performs, we will be happy to take the filter back and give you a complete
refund and we will pay for the return shipping charges. All we ask is that you
first, work with us to a reasonable degree to try to make your system work well.
The only time we have seen any problems was when the customer’s plumbing would
not allow enough movement of water through the filter. If this problem is not
fixed, no filter will perform properly.
Order your Advantage
filter,
it performs the work of filtering so you don't
have to!
Remember - ZERO RISK !
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